Long Wave Run-Up on Random Beaches

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Long wave run-up on random beaches.

The estimation of the maximum wave run-up height is a problem of practical importance. Most of the analytical and numerical studies are limited to a constant slope plain shore and to the classical nonlinear shallow water equations. However, in nature the shore is characterized by some roughness. In order to take into account the effects of the bottom rugosity, various ad hoc friction terms are ...

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ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Physical Review Letters

سال: 2011

ISSN: 0031-9007,1079-7114

DOI: 10.1103/physrevlett.107.184504